All our tuxedos are tailored with our signature lightweight horsehair canvas from Italy, by sewing underneath the wool fabric shell. A full-canvas garment lasts longer, breathes better, helps the tuxedo to drape naturally without bunching, and allows for a more natural movement because its hand-sewn layers can move independently of one another. Most off-the-rack and made-to-measure tuxedo makers reduce costs by eliminating the full-canvas feature. Instead, they “fuse” (or glue) the fabrics together in order to imitate the appearance of a fully canvassed jacket.
Satin Hand Rolled Lapels
The fall and curl of the lapel downwards from the fold (break) of the collar to the designated button. The canvasing creates a soft, natural curve to the finish of the lapel. The term ‘roll’ applies to a softer lapel finish.
Handset Soft Natural Shoulder
Soft Natural Shoulder is created using a very thin pad. Due to the lack of shoulder padding, the line of the shoulder is more sloped and transitions smoothly into the line of the sleeve. Making it perfect for sports-coats and tuxedos.
When your tuxedo has higher arm holes it will give you more mobility and won’t bunch up. The tuxedo barely raises up when your arms are raised. The shoulders are much smoother, the chest doesn’t stretch as much, and overall, it looks way more professional.
Front pockets are another defining feature of your jacket. The classic option is straight and flapped. For a dressier look, you can try a besom, or slit, style. For something more expressive, try slanted hacking pockets. You can even add a small ticket pocket for loose change or earbuds
The buttons on our garments are all hand-sewn onto by our master tailor using the highest quality Faro silk thread. An abundance of buttons to choose from; our selection ranges from plastic, horn and mother of pearl (shell). Each and every button is sewn on using the standard master tailor’s technique by providing a neck, also known as the stem, for the button to rest on. This allows for greater ease when fastening.
Anchors/ Reinforced Buttons
Never again will any button fall off your tuxedo. Not only are the main buttons of your tuxedo sewn on by hand, but they are also secured on the reverse side of the tuxedo with a button anchor.
Handsewn Milanese Buttonhole
Cut and stitched by hand, the Milanese buttonhole on the lapel of your jacket will provide a unique touch of elegance and prestige to your bespoke tuxedo. Believed to have originated in Italy and then made popular by Italian tailors in France, the Milanese buttonhole is the apex of a fundamentally tailored tuxedo. You will be hard pressed to find functioning buttonholes on most off-the-rack tuxedos, let alone fully functioning finishing touches like this.
Accent Threads on the Lapel and Buttonholes
Accent threads on the lapel and buttonholes are another way to distinguish a custom tuxedo. Part of the appeal of custom vs. off-the-rack is having a say in what goes into the design and choosing accent thread colors for the lapel is an excellent way to add your own personality into the making of your tuxedo. From subtle shade differences to full contrast, the options are virtually limitless and add a polished look to the entire tuxedo.
Surgeons Cuffs / Functional Sleeve Buttons
Fully functioning buttonholes on jacket sleeves are a must. Also known as surgeon cuffs, these working sleeve buttonholes are ready for you to roll up your sleeves and get down to business. Whether buttoned all the way down or leaving the last one undone for a little “show-off,” functional sleeve buttons allow for much more flexibility and movement in the tuxedo. Nothing screams “custom tuxedo” like working cuffs. Accent the last buttonhole for an even more dramatic effect.
6 Interior Pockets
We have designed our jackets to be both functional and elegant. Probably the most useful pockets on a tailored jacket are the inner ones. These pockets can carry your stuff no matter wearing the jacket buttoned or unbuttoned, and the jacket still retains a clean and smooth appearance. Pen and Pencil pocket, Passport pocket, Business card pocket and Mobile phone pockets.
Silk Interior Lining
Be as bold or as subtle as you’d like with the interior of your garment. Hundreds of silk lining options to choose from, we even have the capability to produce a custom lining with any design you’d like. Bemberg silk is some of the strongest most durable fabric in the world – it only makes sense for the part of your jacket that endures the most wear and tear.
Because each garment is made for you and you alone, we’ve added in an extra special touch by embroidering your full name or Initials inside every jacket and pant. Don’t want your name, add a custom message, quote or wedding date. They can all be embroidered using a variety of fonts and colors to make your custom tuxedo truly unique.
Built-in Pocket Square
The outer chest-pocket lining of each Dapper Concepts tuxedo jacket doubles as an impromptu pocket square, adding a nice accent by inverting.
Doing exactly what they say they will, sweat shields built into the underarms of your tuxedo are another way a little bit of extra care in the construction of your tuxedo can pay big dividends.