All our suits are tailored with our signature lightweight horsehair canvas from Italy, by sewing underneath the wool fabric shell. A full-canvas garment lasts longer, breathes better, helps the suit to drape naturally without bunching, and allows for a more natural movement because its hand-sewn layers can move independently of one another. Most off-the-rack and made-to-measure suit makers reduce costs by eliminating the full-canvas feature. Instead, they “fuse” (or glue) the fabrics together in order to imitate the appearance of a fully canvassed jacket.
Hand Rolled Lapels
The fall and curl of the lapel downwards from the fold (break) of the collar to the designated button. The canvasing creates a soft, natural curve to the finish of the lapel. The term ‘roll’ applies to a softer lapel finish.
Handset Soft Natural Shoulder
Soft Natural Shoulder is created using a very thin pad. Due to the lack of shoulder padding, the line of the shoulder is more sloped and transitions smoothly into the line of the sleeve. Making it perfect for sport coats and suits.
When your suit has higher arm holes it will give you more mobility and won’t bunch up. The suit barely raises up when your arms are raised. The shoulders are much smoother, the chest doesn’t stretch as much, and overall, it looks way more professional.
Front pockets are another defining feature of your jacket. The classic option is straight and flapped. For a dressier look, you can try a besom, or slit, style. For something more expressive, try slanted hacking pockets. You can even add a small ticket pocket for loose change or earbuds.
Hand Pick Stitching
Yet another feature of a quality custom suit is pick stitching. Pick stitching refers to the small subtle stitching around exposed edges on a suit, such as the lapel and pockets and even buttonholes. Pick stitching adds an extra “finished” look to a custom suit and can be designed to blend seamlessly into the suit or involve a contrasting color to add visual interest.
The buttons on our garments are all hand-sewn onto by our master tailor using the highest quality Faro silk thread. An abundance of buttons to choose from; our selection ranges from plastic, horn and mother of pearl (shell). Each and every button is sewn on using the standard master tailor’s technique by providing a neck, also known as the stem, for the button to rest on. This allows for greater ease when fastening.
Anchors / Reinforced Buttons
Never again will any button fall off your suit. Not only are the main buttons of your suit sewn on by hand, but they are also secured on the reverse side of the suit with a button anchor.
Handsewn Milanese Buttonhole
Cut and stitched by hand, the Milanese buttonhole on the lapel of your jacket will provide a unique touch of elegance and prestige to your bespoke suit. Believed to have originated in Italy and then made popular by Italian tailors in France, the Milanese buttonhole is the apex of a fundamentally tailored suit. You will be hard pressed to find functioning buttonholes on most off-the-rack suits, let alone fully functioning finishing touches like this.
Accent Threads On The Lapel And Buttonholes
Going right along with pick stitching, accent threads on the lapel and buttonholes are another way to distinguish a custom suit. Part of the appeal of custom vs. off-the-rack is having a say in what goes into the design and choosing accent thread colors for the lapel is an excellent way to add your own personality into the making of your suit. From subtle shade differences to full contrast, the options are virtually limitless and add a polished look to the entire suit.
Surgeons Cuffs / Functional Sleeve Buttons
Fully functioning buttonholes on jacket sleeves are a must. Also known as surgeon cuffs, these working sleeve buttonholes are ready for you to roll up your sleeves and get down to business. Whether buttoned all the way down or leaving the last one undone for a little “show-off,” functional sleeve buttons allow for much more flexibility and movement in the suit. Nothing screams “custom suit” like working cuffs. Accent the last buttonhole for an even more dramatic effect.
6 Interior Pockets
We have designed our jackets to be both functional and elegant. Probably the most useful pockets on a tailored jacket are the inner ones. These pockets can carry your stuff no matter wearing the jacket buttoned or unbuttoned, and the jacket still retains a clean and smooth appearance. Pen and Pencil pocket, Passport pocket, Business card pocket and Mobile phone pockets
Be as bold or as subtle as you’d like with the interior of your garment. Hundreds of silk lining options to choose from, we even have the capability to produce a custom lining with any design you’d like. Bemberg silk is some of the strongest, most durable fabric in the world – it only makes sense for the part of your jacket that endures the most wear and tear.
Doing exactly what they say they will, sweat shields built into the underarms of your suit are another way a little bit of extra care in the construction of your suit can pay big dividends.
Built-In Pocket Square
The outer chest-pocket lining of each Dapper Concepts suit jacket doubles as an impromptu pocket square, adding a nice accent by inverting.